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How To Build Tamiya 1 32 P 51d Mustang

2021年1月25日

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An inbox review from Paul of the much adored Tamiya P-51D in 1/32 flavour. This is meant to be the best all round kit on the market at the moment - supposedl. Having built Tamiya’s 1/32 P-51D back in 2012 or so I was pleased to find it every bit as nice as I remembered. This is a fantastic kit, but check the box schemes before building. Summary: Manufacturer: Tamiya Scale: 1/32 Subject: P-51D Mustang Extras: HGW seat belts, Anyz stencils, Lifelike Decals, Topnotch masks (insignia), resin wheels Paints: MRP, Alclad I didn’t think I would be. Tamiya’s superlative 1/32 P-51D Mustang builds into a fantastically detailed model straight from the box. However, for those interested in an even higher level of detail, Barracuda Cast details offers upgrades and decal stencils and placards that will make this model look like you could climb in the cockpit and start it up! Dragon P-51D Mustang 1:32. Feature Article by Gary Wickham. You may well have followed Gary’s stunning build of his Tamiya 1:32 P-51D Mustang displayed as usual on a realistic base? Well, if you haven’t then don’t delay, it’s something special indeed. Not to be put off by the criticism that the Dragon kit in the same.
2/21/2013 I’ve actually started this build on the 12th of February but haven’t started the build article till now. I purchased this model at the IPMS nationals last year at Disneyworld. I bought it from Squadron when I noticed they had a special at the show – 30% off. Gotta love that. I also purchased later Roy Sutherlands really nice cockpit stencils as made by his company BARRACUDACALS. I used these when I built the Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire XIIV and loved them. These went on well too as the pictures will show. Here are pictures of the BARRACUDACALS stencils as well as the instructions:
I’ve also completed the cockpit as the following photos will show. The build is very nice – this is a great kit. I’ve used ModelMaster metalizer paints for the metal surfaces. I love how nicely they lay down. Very easy to use. I also used the 4 Tamiya Weathering Master kits to add a little weathering.
2/22/2013 I’ve finished step 20 in the instructions. As you can see I’ve now closed up the fuselage. This is a very involved and detailed model that won’t be finished till step 71. It moves along quite quickly compared to the Arizona because there isn’t all of the fiddly photo etch to deal with. There are two very nice frets of photo etch here but you don’t have to fold any of it and they are very nice to deal with. On to the pictures:
3/3/2013 I’ve finished the wings and glued them to the fuselage. I’ve also assembled a few of the extra bits. One picture shows some of the parts of the cooling vents on the a/c bottom. They have been finished in Alclad II and I really like the finish. I’ve just received 4 more bottles of the stuff:duraluminum, dark aluminum, white aluminum, and polished aluminum to add to the bottles I already had: airframe aluminum, and aluminum. That should give me a nice wide range of shades to finish the model in. I plan on giving the plane a light coat of Tamiay fine surface primer, then a coat of Model Master black enamel followed by the Alcald II. I will shade various panels in other colors to give some variation. This kit goes together really really well. Just a pleasure to build – it has been a lot of fun so far. Now on to the pictures:
3/6/2013 I’ve now completed the Alclad II painting. I’ve added 12 new pictures below. In the first pic you will notice the gloss black undercoat – I used Model Master gloss black enamel and discovered if you spray it on really diluted you can get an extremely shiny surface – notice the lander gear. Also in the first pic is the Tamiya carousal with other bits with their gloss black undercoat…
Next we have the external fuel tanks with their wing fixtures.
In this picture the a/c has been given several light coats of Alclad II airframe aluminum. I had to go over it several times to get a somewhat even coverage.
Here are the external tanks painted in Alclad duraluminum and the m/g covers still in the gloss black…
Here is a closeup of the landing gear painted in airframe aluminum – you can see the high gloss finish.
These next photos show how the Alclad had pealed off when I removed the Tamiya tape which was used to mask off for different shades.
I fixed this using post-it-notes which have really low tackiness. A note on the other shades, they are as follows:
wing panels – dark aluminum
fuselage panels – white aluminum
canopy bottom frame panel – polished aluminum
I’ve also found that when the Alclad is dry – it will still come off on your hands. I’ve addressed that by polishing the a/c with a microfiber cloth. That seems to remove the excess dry paint particles. I still may seal the finish but haven’t decided what to seal it with.
Here is the result…
3/8/2013 I’ve finished the blue nose painting as well as sealing the Alclad finish. I used Tamiya paints for the blue and mixed as called out in the instructions. I sealed the model with Future Floor Wax. I discovered that Future really doesn’t alter the hue of the finish – at least to my eyes. Now I can handle the model and proceed with the decals. I did not like the final finish on the starboard inner wing panel – there was some lint or other particles caught in the paint. I fixed it by sanding down the finish with really fine sandpaper dipped in water. Then I polished the area with Squadron super finishing stick #30507. I then sprayed the area with very diluted Model Master gloss black enamel followed by a few coats of Alclad. The result was much much better and really worth the few minutes that it took. Here are four pictures showing where I’m at now:
3/12/2013 I’ve now started applying the decals. It wasn’t long before disaster struck. I was applying a stencil just below the cockpit then applied Microscale Sol to it – I accidently moved the stencil with my finger and it ended up on the 352nd fighter group emblem just below the cockpit. I noticed it later, but by this time the Sol and done it’s deed and the two decals were melted together. I was able to remove the emblem but in doing so I also destroyed the 6 kills just above the emblem. I looked for a replacement sheet everywhere online but no one was selling one – I also tried the Scale Modeler A/C forum – no dice. I then e-mailed Tamiya America and they very graciously offered to send me the whole decal sheet free of charge. Wow – gotta love Tamiya. I immediately sent them my address and am now waiting. I also replaced the stencil that I moved with another one (not the correct one but I’ll fix that when the new decal sheet arrives). Here is a picture of the P-51D without the emblem…
3/14/2013 Well this brings to a close this build – well almost – I still need to apply the two decals I ruined and I may add a little weathering at some time. Here are 5 photos of the ’completed’ Tamiya 1/32 P-51D.
This first one show a nice size comparison with two other WWII a/c that I’ve completed. I was going to add the antenna wire that’s shown in the Tamiya literature – but I’ve determined that none of the ETO P-51D’s had one – so mine won’t either.
3/21/2013 Well – I found out that I needed both decal sheets and Tamiya was just wonderful and sent both sheets to me for free. I got them in about three days. That’s what I call customer service!! I must say I love the Tamiya operation – very classy. I’ve just taken a few pics of the finished model…this has got to be the ultimate P-51D model out there. Just a pleasure to build – no problems anywhere. Well – to be honest – they should make the decals thinner – but they are a mass market company and thicker decals are more robust – so I can understand that too. Here are the pictures:Tamiya’s 1/32 scaleP-51D Mustangby Bruce SalmonHow To Build Tamiya 1 32 P 51d Mustang For SaleNorth American P-51D-20NA Mustang Maj. Dick Hewitt (82nd FS, 78th FG, 8th AFTamiya’s 1/32 scale Tamiya P-51D Mustang is available online from Squadron.comConstruction
Aftermarket Products Used
Aftermarket Products Used:
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BarracudaCals (BC32010) Mustang Cockpit Stencils and Placards
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BarracudaCast (BR32012) P-51D Mustang Cockpit Sidewalls
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BarracudaCast (BR32013) P-51D Mustang Instrument Panel
*
BarracudaCast (BR32014) P-51D Mustang Cockpit Upgrade
*
BarracudaCast (BR32031) P-51D Mustang Octagonal Tread Tires
*
Zotz (ZTZ32-048) The Duxford Eagles Decal Sheet
Cockpit
The Barracuda resin cockpit is very nice and fits without any headaches (You can always visit their website if you need further help). Caution is needed with their PE instrument panel as the holes in the bezels are smaller than the ones in the panel itself thus they can get off-centre enough so that they don’t line up with the plastic instruments sheet.
Of note the instructions for the canopy rails are wrong. You’ll need to fold one inside out as both rails should have the high end of the slot holes facing towards the front.
Also be aware that the Barracuda cockpit stencil decal set is for use on the kit parts so you may need to adjust them a bit to fit the resin; the large decals for the lower instrument panel will need to be cut up to fit properly. I couldn’t find any info in my oodles of reference material as to what radios to use so I just did what the Barracuda instructions said.
I ended up using the wrong gunsight as Barracuda don’t say which block number their replacement resin K-14 gunsight/throttle lever is for. I didn’t find any references until it was already done. I then discovered that “Late” meant Block 20 onwards (I originally started out to build Maj. George Preddy’s Mustang “Cripes Amighty” which was a Block 15). I also couldn’t see the gunsight’s sunshield being used in any period photos available to me so left it off.
The rest of the cockpit build held no surprises.
Fuselage
The radiator sub-assembly was quite straight forward but proved difficult to paint as the Alclad tended not to settle properly in such a confined space. You should also make sure the cockpit is attached to the engine BEFORE you close up the fuselage halves otherwise it won’t fit and you’ll need a knife and a bag of choice words to fix it. The tail insert was attached with no fit issues.
Once the halves were glued I added the exterior inserts, some of which don’t fit very well. The Q4 & Q5 inserts are a bit gappy and the removable parts have a sloppy fit. These gaps will show up hugely with a NMF and so I had to shim a few of them to ensure a tight fit. The sliding canopy insert Q2 was glued in place at this time as my canopy would be posed open. The tail wheel well was also attached and was spruced up by adding lightening holes to the internal panels as well as hydraulic lines and control cables. Not that you can see much of it but once I got started I just couldn’t help myself.
In this instance I chose to have the cowls permanently fixed to the nose framework as I didn’t want to bother with super detailing an engine. To build this Mustang with closed cowls you are still going to need to assemble much of the engine just to hang everything off. I also added some sprue supports between the engine block and part V18 as it seemed a bit flimsy to support the upper cowl.
I then moved on to the cowls themselves which are very thin and only have a tiny seamline that needs sanding. You will need to be very careful in gluing the cowls to the frame as any errors will show up horribly with a NMF. While it may be the best option when using magnets, to pose the cowls on and off as Tamiya proposes does not represent the way they function in real life. The top and bottom cowls would need to be cut into more than one piece to be accurate.
Wings
There is one problem with the wings and gun access panels and that is all those nasty rivet holes. I decided to paint Mr Surfacer 1000 into all the rivet holes and panel lines as spraying the whole surface would have erased the details I wanted to keep. I can’t remember how many times I did it but it was a lot! The Mr Surfacer would tend to ride over the holes creating an air bubble beneath. When sanded back the holes would reappear. I glued the gun panels closed with one proving to be a bit gappy on one edge. I also lost count of the number of times I filled it with super glue and rescribed to get a perfect line. This was all done before the wing halves were joined for simplicity’s sake.
Undercarriage Legs
The legs are a bit toy-like in the way they are constructed. The scissor links are reminiscent of something you would find in a 1/72 scale kit and required drilling out before adding the PE. I replaced the over scale brake lines with brass wire and also scratch built the tow rings which consequently broke off several times. The legs were sprayed with Floquil Old Silver.
Wheels
I used the Barracuda resin wheels as I just don’t like rubber ones. After painting they were weathered using the Tamiya Weathering Master set (Mud) applied to the wheel sidewalls and tread.
When I sprayed on a coat of Estapol matt varnish to seal it, the weathering vanished so I had to do it all over again.
Wheel Wells
The wheel well ribs are very gappy and it is not easy to fix so I left them alone. If you plan to add all the relevant pipework and wiring then you should drill out the necessary holes in the ribs before gluing them in place. Ask me how I know this. Do your research before you build, not afterwards.
The inner gear doors/centre bulkhead was assembled as per the instructions. Then I decided the doors would be in the way when I went to detail the wheel wells so I cut them off as close to the centre bulkhead as possible. I made a bit of a hash of it so I had to engineer the doors to be inserted at an angle thus hiding the mess.
Half way through detailing the wells I put my back out due to poor posture and had to take a break for about 2 months...
Construction Continues
With the NZ IPMS nationals looming I decided it was time to go hard out and get the Mustang finished. I completed the wheel wells sub-assembly and painted it Humbrol 226 Interior Green, gave it a wash with raw umber oil paint then added highlights by drybrushing lighter green and also silver for wear and a little chipping.
I glued the wells onto the lower wing and attached the top wing halves. The fuselage was then mated with the wings. I must say that the joint was perfect. Next on were the horizontal stabilizers and suddenly I had what was starting to look like an aeroplane. It should be noted here that the internal plastic anchor points corresponding to the metal tabs on all the moveable surfaces (ailerons etc) were removed so those surfaces could be inserted and then pulled out again if there were any problems. Better safe than sorry.
The removable gear leg maintenance panels (A11 & A12) were detailed on the inside. Their fit to the wing was less than satisfactory with an approx 5 thou gap at the sides and one even had a 10 thou gap at the back. I decided that the best fix was to glue them in position then fill the gaps and rescribe. This meant that I had to attach the painted gear legs before painting the wings; some very careful sanding would be required so as not to damage them. I also left the wheels and doors off at this stage so they wouldn’t get broken during the masking/painting process; a fair bit of mucking around was involved to engineer this solution.How To Build Tamiya 1 32 P 51d Mustang 60cc Arf For Sale
The landing light was also detailed and its corresponding attachment point in the wing modified to look more realistic.
With the cockpit and wheel wells masked over I was now ready for priming and sanding. Since I was using Alclad II Metallics I undercoated with their White Primer and Microfiller product. It sprays very nicely straight from the bottle but has a bad habit of chronic pebbling in the wing roots where the wing forms a perpendicular angle to the fuselage. I had to use a rag and Lacquer thinner to clean it off which also removed some of the raised plastic detail. I then sprayed the roots again and it was on to the sanding process. I used wet sandpaper as this lessens the chances of any scratching; starting with 1000 grit and finishing off with 4000 grit. Any finer than that and you’re just wasting your time.
I added the gun sight glass, armoured glass and windscreen after this step so they wouldn’t get damaged during sanding.
Canopy
The first thing to do with the canopy is to remove the seam line. I did this with a 1000 grit sanding stick then proceeded all the way to 12000 grit finishing up with Tamiya Polishing Compound (Fine) and then (Finish). This yielded a very clear and shiny canopy. I tend to stay away from Future now days as there is too much chance of muck sticking to it while it is drying.
I scratch built a new antenna wire guide and attached it with white glue. The Tamiya paint masks for the canopy have to be cut out which is no real problem. However, it is a bit annoying that they give you what I consider unnecessary masks to fill in the blank spaces on top of the canopy but none for the armoured glass or the canopy interior.
Drop Tanks
The drop tanks were assembled then painted Alclad 106 White Aluminum. I gave them a very light wash with black oil paint as they would have been brand new. I plumbed the tanks with lead wire wrapped with Tamiya tape to simulate the rubber hoses.
It should be noted that the plumbing for the drop tanks changed at Block 20 so that both the fuel and pressure lines originated from the same hole near the leading edge of the wing.
Flaps
I also decided to mimic wrinkles seen on the flaps of real Mustangs by scraping along the rivet lines with a curved blade. They were then sanded to a smooth finish which also necessitated a re-riveting exercise.
I had never tried this before and it seems to work quite well.Painting and Markings
Wings
I sprayed Floquil Old Silver initially but that didn’t cover very well (too much thinner I think) and I was rapidly losing the gun access panel lines so I switched to Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminium.
Fuselage
Alclad II Lacquer metallics:
ALC 101 Aluminum ALC 102 Duraluminum ALC 103 Dark Aluminum ALC 106 White Aluminum ALC 104 Pale Burnt Metal
I used a base coat of ALC 101 Aluminum and then tinted some of the panels by mixing Aluminum with 10-50% of one of the other colours. The panel and rivet lines were then post shaded with a very thin mix of Tamiya X19 Smoke.
Rudder: Testors Gloss Enamel 1103 Red lightened with Humbrol 153 Insignia Red.
Clear CoatHow To Build Tamiya 1 32 P 51d Mustang 1 5m Bnf Basic With Smart
Once the painting was done I gave the model a protective clear coat using Tamiya Acrylic X-22 Clear to give a nice smooth surface for decaling. It took 8 coats

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2021年1月25日

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